As we arrive at the middle of June I’m happy to report our first three courses all summited both Gran Paradiso and Mont Blanc and experienced good conditions on both mountains. I’ve just heard this morning that unfortunately our fourth team were thwarted by stormy weather at 5am and couldn’t leave the Tete Rousse hut; today will be mostly nice but winds up top are set to remain high and tonight storms are coming in again with more high winds, which rules out a 1am start for a last day ascent. Very frustrating for all concerned as during the day today and tomorrow the weather will be mostly sunny, but everything has to be right to make an ascent, a bit of high wind on an otherwise sunny day or storms in the night stopping us from getting away early is often all it takes to mess things up. Hopefully we’ll be able to do something challenging off the Aiguille du Midi tomorrow as they are quite a strong team who all summitted Gran Paradiso and would have all had a good chance of getting up Mont Blanc had the weather been kinder.
As for mountain conditions is been very hot for the last few days and this is set to continue for the next week or so; at the moment the Grand Couloir on Mont Blanc is still OK (see below) but we need it too cool off soon so we don’t start to have rock fall problems.
John Taylor (Head Guide)
Mont Blanc Grand Couloir Mid June 2017